Sunday, August 24, 2014

Paint update


Hello gang,

My apologizes for not posting soon, had a few "Life interruptus" moments since I last posted.

Anyways, here's were the paint stands.

I had to break down and buy a rattle can of  Model Master Olive drab to complete the hull.
It was taking too much time and I wasn't getting the coverage I wanted on the underside, running gear areas.

So here's some shots of that progress.






I had no challenges with the turret paint, coverage was good, but I still had to spray everything.

Now, I think I mentioned earlier that I live in a apartment complex and air brushing wasn't really a good idea because of the compressor noise and such. So, having said that, I was at a bit of a loss on how I was going to use a rattle can to complete the task. Hmmmm, how about I make a booth! But what do I have?

Well, here's what I came up with...................




Not bad if I do say so.......Redneck paint booth coming to a store near you.



Wow! Not bad! The paint booth was an old cat lounger frame and I used butcher string on the top so I could hang the parts to paint. A cardboard box was used for the backing. Quick and simple. 

Now, I let that dry, inside, for 12 hours/overnight and started weathering/texture of the kit today.
I used an "old school" way of texturing the Aux. Gen. exhaust pipes. (See photos below.)
White glue or liquid cement and baking soda/powder. 

This process you can find in Sheperd Paine's book, "Modeling Tanks and Military Vehicles." Chapter 3, Weathering. 







Here's how it was done if you don't have the book as I mentioned in the above.
1. Brush on a small amount of white glue to area. Make sure you have little to no excess showing.
2. With same brush, lightly dip the brush into some baking soda or baking powder. Use a "junk" brush for this whole process.
3. Apply powder or soda to tow cables, exhaust, anything that in the real world would be exposed to the weather and would rust over time. 
4. Gently brush off area with clean brush to remove excess powder or soda before glue completely dries. 
5. Let dry. 10 to 30 minutes. The longer the better.
6. Semi dry brush on "rust" color, then dry brush "gun metal" color. Repeat this step if needed.

You might want to practice on any spare parts that you might have lying around, just to get the feel for it first.

Anyways, I still have the tracks to do. The rattle can run out before I could nail them. 
And so continues the paint. I hope this has been somewhat informative for everyone that has popped in so far.

Until next post............See ya in the funnies....................................


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